The Walled City of Radstadt
Radstadt, at the foot of the Tauern mountains with the mighty
Dachstein in the background, is first mentioned in 1074 and
recognized as a town in 1289. It was the only mountain city in
the Archbishopric of Salzburg, and it was a flourishing medieval
trading center due to its strategically important position. In the
Peasants' War of 1526,
Michael Gaismair and his rebel forces
seized the town and its vigorous defence was rewarded by
Archbishop Matthaus Lang with the motto "Ever Loyal".The
13th century walls are of a symmetrical design and include three
watch towers, Hexen, Teich and Kapuzinerturm, built between
1527 and 1535. The invading Turks once camped beneath
these walls. It is called the "wheel city" because six routes
radiate from the city center: Sparkassenpassage, Stöcklloch,
Scheikstiege, Metzgerloch, Baderstiege and Friedhof, and there
is the Millenniumspfad, a walking path along the walls, plus an
old castle dating from 1298. The Kapuzinerturm tower watches
over one of the key north-south routes.
Musician and organist Paul Hofhaimer was born here in 1459 into a well-to-do family. In 1480, he
was called to Innsbruck by Duke Sigmund to serve as court organist. Hofhaimer was granted a
lifelong position there, but he also began serving Emperor Maximilian 1, who took over Tirol's
legislature in 1490.  In 1498, after several years of travel, much of it with the king, he moved to
Passau, and then to Ausgsburg in 1507.
Maximilian and the Polish King made him a nobleman, a knight and "First Organist to
the Emperor" in 1515. Hofhaimer's last move was to Salzburg, where he remained as
Cathedral organist until his death. He was not simply a performing musician, he was
considered the finest organist of his age by many. He taught an entire generation of
German organists and he influenced later Baroque music. He was one of the only
German-speaking composers of the time with wide repute outside of Germany.
The city of Radstadt, originally named Altenmarkt, is in the district of St. Johann in the heart of the
Pongau in the province of Salzburg, and was settled by Bavarians in the 7th century and later
Christianized. Radstadt was granted municipal rights, privileges, and freedoms in 1289 by the
Archbishop of Hohenegg, freeing them for ten years from almost all taxes and duties. Ancient roads
intersect nearby, connecting the eastern and western mountain areas by the road crossing the
Radstädter Tauern mountain pass. It is bordered by the Taurach stream and Enns River. The
Radstädter Tauern, known and used by the Romans, separates the Pongau from the Lungau. Roman
occupied parts of Austria for over 500 years and there were numerous settlements and military bases.
This required a relatively complex road system in such rugged country.
Juvavum (Salzburg) and Virunum were connected by a Roman road which
dates back to the emperor Septimus Severus in the 3rd century AD. and
follows the route of today's awe inspiring Radstädter Tauern highway. On
the highest stop of the Tauernpass lies the Tauernfriedhof, in which the
former inhabitants of the Tauern kept houses as well the burial grounds of
the victims of mountain accidents.
Napoleon's imperial officers once traveled under the strongest avalanche danger over the Tauern,
bringing messages over this historic roadway. An old Tauern keeper and mail deliverer, Josef Gruber,
related that during his 36 years on the Lungauer side of the Tauern from 1810 to 1846, 14 people
had lived through avalanches, including himself after being buried for three hours. Even after autos
carried mail across the Tauern, if the snow was too high, the mail was sent by skiers.
The road over the Radstädter Tauern ranks among the most well-known Roman mountain routes of
Europe. The planning for today's Tauern Highway Project dates back to 1938, but the key
passageway of the Tauern Highway was not opened to traffic until June 21, 1975.    
Tremendous glacial ice streams cover the area with huge ice masses that back up at the mountains,
then roll over it and reach the lakes of the salt chambers below. From 10,000 to 1800 BC hunting
and fishing took place in the Pongau, and there were cavemen who bred cattle in the Bronze age.
Today's Radstädter Tauern Road runs from Radstadt in Ennstal Valley via the Radstädter Tauern
Pass to Mauterndorf in the Lungau. On the road leading to Radtsadt, over the Radstaedter Tauern in
the Lungau,  marble is still visible which was quarried in Roman times. "Schaidberger marble" is
found in 24 ancient Roman milestones. These were set in the distance derived from Roman road
miles, a Roman road mile, or millia passum, equaling approximately 1,470 to 1,480 meters.
The Schaidberg
The name Pongau first appears in documents in 750 and 788 as a particularly favorable terrace. Main
grains grown by the settlers were oats and rye and even some hops later. They operated an exchange
of goods and supplied salt to the south and brought wine, spices and cloth into the north. Early city
and market municipalities were differentiated from villages in that authority for the regional law
courts went to some while others only got market right awards. In 1525, there was a great exodus
from the valley after the rebellion of the farmers and some miners, leading to farmer wars of 1525
and 1526. Radstadt was rewarded for its loyalty to the government.
It is below the Tauernhoehe, nearby the Schaidberg mountain, that many misfortunes occurred. In
the year 1807, and again in 1862, terrible avalanches took numerous victims. It was on a stormy
winter day long ago when one Paul Perner drove over the Tauern and came upon  group of people
driving oxen over the mountain when a sudden avalanche buried them, oxen and all. Miraculously,
only one of the group was killed, and only 10 of the 26 oxen were lost. A dangerous avalanche
location is also the area underneath Schaid mountain itself, as it has an expansion of nearly a
kilometer, and here the snow masses before rushing across the high mountain walls and down upon
everything below, carrying with it trees, sticks and rocks, even roots of trees.  
It is in this cemetery one of the most beautiful and rarest alpine flowers can be found. It is the blue
Binse or Wulfen, Lomatogonium Carinthiacum, which is almost  extinct. Also here, Roman coins,
weapons and tools are found. But as beautiful as the Tauern is in the summer, it is just as terrible
and dangerous in the winter, with wild snowstorms and fierce avalanches, which even in the old
times posed a mortal threat since the Tauern lay completely isolated, and this cemetery on the height
of the Tauern well attests to its victims.
Persecution of the Protestants was keen in Gastein in the most southern part of the Pongau. Jesuits
fomented discord and spying within communities and even within families. Hans Mossegger, a
Protestant lay preacher and leader from Wagrain who was exiled in 1732, once complained of the
Jesuits: "No household, no bedroom, no barn or stall, no straw hut or pasture shack , no basement,
no cave is safe from their spying. Like wolves and assassins, the Jesuit fathers creep into your houses
and poke into every corner, questioning children and farmhands. If you say anything, you are lost."
The Pongau Protestants
The Neighborhood and Specifically, the Pongau
Salzburg was divided into various sections. Lungau,
full of green rolling pastures, steep mountainsides, large
basins and narrow valleys lies in the south-easternmost
corner of Salzburg Land. The Lungau valley is
enclosed to the north and to the east by the Niedere
Tauern, to the south by the Nockberge and to the west
by the Hohe Tauern. The two main valleys of the
central basin are Taurachtal and Murtal, Taurachtal
being the most fertile and densely populated of the
Lungau. Its many other valleys form a fan shape.
Among its minor valleys, Zederhaustal is the longest
valley. Until recently, the Lungau was rather isolated.
Flachgau is the most northerly part of Salzburg Land and contains mountains, meadows and hills,
with forests, lakes, ponds and marshes. In the Ice Age, the masses of the Salzach glaciers formed
"fingers" toward the north between Salzburg and Bavaria. The high Flyschberge (Flysch mountains)
loom in the background. Several truly lovely lakes date to the Ice Age.
Tennengau extends south from Salzburg, its western border dominated by the Göll massif while to
the east, the Gschütt Pass leads towards Upper Austria. The river Salzach has dug through the chains
of mountains Hagen and Tennengebirge over several thousands of years. The gorges carved by the
river are called Salzachöfen are in places extremely deep.
Pinzgau is the largest part of Salzburg Land, and subdivided into Mitterpinzgau, Unterpinzgau and
Oberpinzgau (central, lower and upper). Central Pinzgau, between Tyrol and Bavaria, is shaped like
a sharp prism and displays a varied mountain landscape. The Großglockner Hochalpenstraße (high
alpine road) runs through its valleys and links to the highest mountain in Austria, the Großglockner,
which does not lie on Salzburg Land territory but is nevertheless tied to it by this road. The Hohe
Tauern forms the southern border of the Pinzgau. This are the longest and most inaccessible section
of the central Alps and their summits are covered by glaciers. In Oberpinzgau, one steep, narrow
valley stream tumbles after another down the Hohe Tauern chain. At a height of 3674 metres above
sea level, the Großvenediger is the highest mountain in Salzburg Land.
Pongau, south of Tennengau, is surrounded to the north by the rocky wall of Salzburg's High Alps,
by the chain of mountains Hagen and Tennengebirge, only penetrated by the Salzach. To its south is
the Hohe Tauern and the Radstädter Tauern, to the east the Dachstein mountain group and to the
west the Steinernes Meer and the Hochkönig. There are several side valleys leading into the Salzach
valley. Pongau has a huge icy world in the Tennengebirge, the biggest cave in the world accessible to
visitors. The summit ridges of the Hohe Tauern and Niedere Tauern rise up over the Schieferberge in
Pongau, traditional mountain farming regions abundant with forests and mountain pastures.
On the Einoedberg and Puergstein there were copper mines, and from 1000 to 500 BC iron and gold
mining. The Celts then came into the Pongau and mined. The Romans under Augustus subjected the
races in these Alps and the Emperor of Salzburg was Claudius around 41-54 A.D. For 400 years,
Romans ruled the area, and a  Roman road system was built by Aquileja over the Radstaedter
Tauern to Salzburg (Juvavum). Approximately around the year 477 A.D. Juvavum was burned.
From 500AD, the Bavarians prevailed in the country. In 720 A.D., murderous Slavs attacked the
Pongau valley and destroyed the Bishopric which was created there by St. Rupert.
The Archbishop of Salzburg sent out his henchmen on horseback,
the so-called Black Riders, to capture them. The Riders had to
cross over ice-covered Lake Gosau. However, the riders with
their horses went through the thin ice and drowned in the lake
and ever since, the local people have called the dwarf Chars of
the Gosau Lakes, the Schwarzreiter.
There exists a rich literature on landlocked char. Even in the early Stone Age and the Bronze Age
people have caught trout with nets. It is assumed that the landlocked arctic char actively immigrated
into most of the glacial lakes in the lowlands both at the edges and in the center of the Alps but were
introduced into the waters of the high mountains above timber line almost exclusively by man, for in
the Middle Ages these fish were largely reserved for the nobility and stocking technologies were
already highly developed and such stocking activity is well-documented by the 15th and 16th
century. The most active and best-known stocking took place under Holy Roman Emperor
Maximilian. Such lakes are often only free of ice for four or five months a year, and the Saiblinge, or
Char, spend most of the year deep in the  bottom of the lake. In these lakes, there were other species
of char introduced which were sometimes larger and heavier than the original population, so today
the fish, like the people, are not exactly the same as the original population.
The dwarfed Char, a trout of the high Austrian mountain lakes are called Schwarzreiter, or
Schwarzreuter (Black Rider).This name was created during the Counter-Reformation in the Salzberg
area. Rebel Protestants had to retreat to the mountain areas, and many fled to the region of the
"Gosau Lakes" in Upper Austria,
There is a famous story about an orphan boy named
Balthasar Brandstaetter. The legend is that he was
refused papers to emigrate with his exiled Protestant
stepfather, Stephan Polsteiner, so he jumped out of
the third floor window at the Wagrain Rathaus to
escape, and not only miraculously survived, but
followed his stepfather into exile, arriving in
Augsburg, a destination for many Protestant exiles,
in 1732. By some accounts, several retained boys
escaped from the Jesuits and tried to find their
banished parents.
Meanwhile, they were refused acknowledgement of baptisms, weddings, and funerals. They met
again in August, 1731 with approximately 100 delegates from Radstadt, Wagrain,  Abtenau, Gastein,
Goldegg and Veit, and at the meeting they called for the “federal state parliament,” singing the 26th
Psalm afterward. They formed a resolution to send another delegation to Regensburg and a further to
Vienna to the emperor; again salt was licked and sworn with the oath, "
God and the comrade loyalty
into death, dipped into salt
." In the end, under Firmian, those who professed themselves to the
Lutheran religion departed. 4,850 people were expelled and most went to East Prussia, but a few
ended up at Ebenezer, in America.
The firmly unitied Lutheran farmers met secretly and
determined that all and everyone should be permitted to
freely exercise their religion and nobody should be forced
from their property and be forced from their native country,
and that they should be allowed to wait for a resolution from
Regensburg; meanwhile they would have to live under the
protection of the emperor. At the end, they affirmed their
alliance by taking a lick of salt from their fingers and
promising to all live and die in the Lutheran faith. Called the
Salt Federation, they are referred to as Saltlickers, click left.
The leaders of the Salzbund included the smithy Stullebner
of Hüttau who was known for his elegant sermons.
The highlanders, mostly poor farmers living in the Pongau and Pinzgau, lived an insular existence
largely cut off from the goings on around Salzburg. Historically, those that had the occasion to travel
to the Protestant cities brought back Lutheran books, and soon the hills were full of stubborn crypto-
Protestants. All was well as long as they were left alone, but under Archbishop Firmian that was no
longer be possible. The Evangelist farmers in Schwarzach began organizing in 1729, and delegates of
the Pongau sent a delegation to Regensburg in 1731 for relief from the aggressive measures of the
Church under Firmian. Their protest was stalled.