Highways, Byways and Old Salt Roads from Passau
There were once "salt roads" throughout Schleswig-Holstein, Bavaria, Thüringia,Westphalia, Tirol
and many other old trading cities such as Passau. It was difficult going by land with mule carts on
rough paths over steep mountains or cut through the forests with numerous toll-gates along the way
where one could be beset by robbers, severe weather and exposed to the dangers of plague and war.
Salt peddlers called "Säumern" carried salt on their backs in sacks. Holy Roman Emperor Karl IV
first established the trade routes commonly known as the Golden Roads from 1356 to 1361.
Roads surrounding Passau and the roads which led out of Passau, crowded with pack horses and salt
caravans, contained markets and tollgates to the different local manorial systems. After the salt was
sold in Bohemia, the traders brought back glass, grain, and amber from the Baltic. Other local
businesses such as barrel makers, cloth makers, coppersmiths, tanners, inns, pewtersmiths, butchers,
restaurants and boat builders benefited from the salt trade, and Passau remained a powerful merchant
city until the late Middle Ages.
The traders, using horses or donkeys, took salt, spices, wine and cloth from the Danube by the ports
in Passau or Vilshofen northward into Böhemia and returned with fish, meat and grain. The lack of
salt in Bohemia was one of the principal reasons for their part in the active trade. Since the Säumern
were mostly farmers, the principal trade time was determined by the harvest in the autumn. Along
those Säumer paths throughout the old regions of Bohemia and Moravia, a great number of new
German settlements sprang up, blending in with the much older German villages and towns in the
areas which went back to the 10th and 11th centuries.
The stops of the three major Golden Roads (Goldener Steig) were (original names): The Unterer
Goldener Steig from Passau over Salzing, Straßkirchen, Großtannensteig, Kringle, Außernbrünst,
Ernsting, Ofernleinbach, Waldkirchen, Böhmzwiesel, Fürholz, Grainet, Bischofsreut and Wallern
ending at Prachatitz. The Mittlerer Goldener Steig from Ernsting over Wotzmannsreut, Winkelbrunn,
Hinterschmiding, Herzogsreut, Philippsreut and Obermoldau ending at Winterberg. The Oberer
Goldener Steig from Salzgattern by Außernbrünst over Röhrnbach, Harsdorf, Freyung, Kreuzberg,
Mauth, Finsterau and Außergfield ending at Bergreichenstein.
The art of truly refined road construction did not begin until the age of enlightened absolutism, when
various rulers recognized the economic and military benefit of good roads. From centuries before the
days of the Romans or Charlemagne, or even before the Middle Ages, traffic instead took place
mainly on "high roads". The artificially built and normally straight Roman roads which came later
have often kept in use, even until the present day where new roads have been built on top of them.
Once upon a time, however, the most common traffic took place almost exclusively over the "high"
ways and not through the more strongly populated valleys.
Even Older High Ways
Today, in some regions, there are traces of the old routes going back in Celtic
time, some with groups of graves along their  hilly paths. There were usually
settlements in these high areas as well because some ancient enterprises
depended on the forest, such as firewood and building supply, charcoal and
potash businesses and mining. This traffic pattern changed, however, when the
kings and princes of the Middle Ages decided to concentrate traffic where the
collection of customs duties was easy and simple...and, like today's drivers that
try to skirt toll roads, early travelers tried to outwit the tolls. Not only that,
farmers in the valleys did not enjoy the land being chopped up for roads.         
What a high-way once may have looked like, left
Plus, there were the age-old reasons for using a less conspicuous route, such as smuggling, running
from the law or eloping. Thus, the old high ways remained in use for as long as people could get
away with using them.
These narrow, ancient roads which cut through the forests were drier, while in valleys below there
were few bridges over the many small brooks which were often impassable after rainfalls. Only if the
destination was close, or if beyond an important river and capable of being reached by a well-known
ford or stone bridge, would the travelers attempt the lower roads. Aside from the problems of nature,
fords and bridges were likely places to be attacked or robbed.
One road connected Bohemia with the Danube in the Middle
Ages. The old road through the Böhmerwald was not only
important because of the trade and the travel, but it played an
indispensable role in the development and exchange of language
and cultural values. The salt trade along the "Goldene Steig"
into Bohemia and beyond was particularly instrumental in
bringing affluence to the trade center of Passau as well as to the
burgeoning towns along its path. An extensive road system
connected Bohemia, Passau and the Austrian Mühlviertel with
the Inn River as a salt route. Horses were used to tow the ships
up the river, and depending on which direction the ships went
and on the amount of the cargo that was carried, the trip took
between 8 days and 2 weeks. Click, left
The Schwarzenberg Kanal
In the 14th century, forward thinking Holy Roman Emperor Karl IV also
envisioned a canal system which would link the major rivers of Bohemia with
the Danube, but high mountains proved to be an obstacle, and the only project
along those lines that was realized was completed much later with the building
of the unique Schwarzenberg Canal which was cut through the mountains to
transport timber in 1789. The canal enabled lumber from the mountains to be
transported by water from southern Bohemia to Vienna.
Within two years, the 40-kilometre long navigational canal had been carved out of the rugged
mountains. The project for the building of the navigational canal was prepared by Josef Rosenauer,
1735-1804, an employee of the administrative office of the Schwarzenberg estates. In 1775, he
presented project plans for a waterway on which felled logs would be floated down from the forests
regions of the Hapsburg Empire's regions of Bohemia to Vienna. The planned canal was supposed to
lead from the mouth of the stream Zwettelbach to the Grosse Mühl river near the Austrian town of
Haslach, across the forests which belonged to the Austrian monastery of Schlägl to the Bohemian
country across the land which was in the ownership of the Schwarzenberg family and the region of
Plöckenstein towards Hirschperky.
The final destination of the Rosenauer project was the stream of Lichtwasser near the Bavarian
border. At that time, the exclusive rights previously given to the bishop of Passau to float timber on
the Mühl river came to an end, and authorised by the emperor's patent, this formed a necessary part
of the plans for transporting timber to Vienna. The right to transport timber was awarded to the duke
of Schwarzenberg, and Johann of Schwarzenberg gave approval to the project, but the actual work
did not start for another ten years in 1789.
The building of the Schwarzenberg navigational canal went very quickly. During the first year a 29.3
km long section of the canal was built from the Zwettelbach stream to the Hefenkriegbach stream,
and it was lengthened until 1793 when the first section of the navigational canal ( later called "the old
canal") ended with a total length of 39.9 km. The building of the canal did not continue, because
even Rosenauer himself had doubts if the water from the reservoirs would be sufficient for the
smooth function of the canal. In 1791, the first continuous flow of logs along the whole length of the
canal took place. The logs floated freely through the Schwarzenberg canal and on to the Mühl river
up to Neuhausen, where an unloading canal with a dock was built. Before the mouth of the Mühl
river to the Danube river, the logs were caught and loaded onto a boat which took them to Vienna.
The logs had to be placed into the canal evenly so that they would not pile up.
There was an optimum capacity of 900-1,000 feet of timber a day, and up to
200 people tended to the smooth running of the canal and piling up timber and
other obstacles from the canal. It stalled when all the timber was gone or if there
was insufficient water. In this situation, it was necessary to suspend the process
and wait until there was rain. The increase in logging brought more work, and
this brought numerous loggers to the areas near the canal, and they, along with
their families, populated new settlements with the approval of the nobility.
The increased requirement for lumber supported the idea of finishing the canal as per the original
project, and therefore make other areas of the forests accessible for production. The second part of
the canal flowed toward the Bavarian border. The first voyage through the "new canal" took place in
1824. The total length of the water way after connection of both sections of the canal was now a
total length of 89.7 km. The canal was fed by 21 streams and was crossed with 87 bridges, 80 water
sluices, 78 water ditches and 22 gates. During the second half of the 19th century, coal edged out
firewood for fuel and the timber industry shifted to long building timbers which the canal was not
suited for, but some timber floating still continued through the canal. The water transportation of the
timber from Haslach to Vienna finally ended in 1891. The railway finally won out over water
transport. In 1916, the last journey took place through the whole length of the canal. Only a small
section was used in the 20th century.
The idea of canals was not new. Around the year 793, Charlemagne tried to link the North Sea and
the Black Sea with a navigable waterway . Known as Fossa Carolina, or Karl's Ditch, this apparently
unfinished waterway ran from the upper run of the Swabian Rezat to the Altmühl river, with a series
of beaded together ponds and tiny lakes, the idea of locks not yet perfected, and various but useless
attempts were made through the centuries at improving this connection.
The traders followed salt
trails from Passau to places
such as the Böhmerwald
town of Prachatitz. The
salt trade made this little
German settlements and
many others flower in the
14th century. Left: traders
unloading salt in Prachatitz,