An Historical Perspective of Salzburg
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The development of Salzburg into a powerful Archbishopric goes back to the Romans who occupied
and developed the land south of the Danube, turning the territory into a province of the territory of
Noricum. Although Christianity was introduced to the area early, Barbarians devastated the land and
the religion vanished until the 8th century when Charlemagne burst upon the world stage and
imposed Christianity throughout Europe. He can be credited for marking the boundaries and ensuring
the territorial sovereignty of the Archbishops of Salzburg. When Archbishop Hartwik's church was
consecrated in Salzburg in 996, Salzburg became a thriving, independent city-state.
In 1613-15, the mandates against Protestants were extended by Archbishop Marcus Sittich to include
the entire region. When the majority Protestant population in Radstadt demanded churches, the
Archbishop increased his sternness, giving the Protestants only 14 days before exile. Of 2,500
Protestants in Gastein, only 300 promised to live and die as Catholics.
The expansion of Ottoman Turks into southeastern Europe provoked great fear, and at the same
time, colder, wetter weather resulted in shorter farming seasons which in turn resulted in food
shortages and widespread starvation. Europe was about to feel the effects of the Thirty Years War.
Most of Germany was destroyed beyond recognition by the ravages of the Thirty Years War as
foreign soldiers burned hundreds of cities, spreading destruction, death and disease. Yet, Salzburg
was barely scathed because of the clever diplomacy of Archbishop Paris Lodron, who, even in the
midst of the neighboring chaos, hosted a consecration of the newly rebuilt Salzburg Cathedral, the
largest baroque building north of the Alps.
The Peace Treaty of Westphalia at war's end pledged that within the German portion of the Empire,
private exercise of non-conforming religion was permitted and the governments were rendered
religiously neutral. Lands secularized by the Protestants in 1624 were generally allowed to remain so,
but in the Habsburg territories of Bohemia and Austria, the Holy Roman Emperor was given a nearly
free hand to reimpose Catholicism...and this he and his minions did with new zeal.
Ferdinand ll ordered the extinction of Protestantism in Austria in 1627 and once
again, Lutherans were expelled on a large scale. He and his authorities set up
heavily armed, guarded commissions who roamed through the country ferreting
out offending Protestants, relying upon assistance from the well-organized and
dependably loyal Jesuits who efficiently fought the Protestants by burning their
books, dragging them to religious "re-education" camps, stealing their children and
generally spreading terror among local populations. The rabid commissions
relentlessly travelled to "troublesome" Austrian parishes such as Carinthia, Styria
and Lower Austria´s “Waldviertel” whose Protestants refused to conform. By
around 1652, many Protestants were forced to flee and either leave everything
behind or sell their goods and property at a great loss.
Some quietly slipped over the border, but often the refugees were arrested, beaten or even sent
back home where they were forced to confess and take communion. Lower Austria was cleansed
of Protestants by 1654. These vulnerable, early Austrian exiles wandered into new areas in small
groups or alone. Approximately 100,000 Protestants, a substantial portion of the population, left
Austria between 1600 and 1680, and there would be many more in times to come.
Salzburg's Protestant salt miners bought a little more time because of their economic importance, but
since the 16th century, they had grown progressively more educated as the Protestant books which
had been smuggled into the region resulted in an unusually high literacy rate in small, rural Lutheran
mountain hamlets. The books, which in an odd way put these simple mountain folk on an intellectual
level similar to the educated German elite, were hidden away in special boxes when not in use and
secreted in wood piles, hay lofts and under trap doors, safe from church spies.
Archbishop Wolf Dieterich, below, sought advise in Rome and issued a proclamation upon his return
for all Protestants to recant or leave within a month, with permission to sell their goods and property
first. So many chose exile that he revised the mandate so as to confiscate their property. By 1588,
the openly Protestant population of Salzburg was expelled and the city was left with 7,000 citizens,
all of them Catholics or pretend Catholics. Many Salzburg Protestants migrated into other German
speaking areas around 1600 and founded such towns such as Freudenstadt in the Black Forest.
Various peasants and salt miners again took up arms in defense of their Lutheran faith in 1601, but
this revolt was also crushed. New worries would soon, temporarily at least, occupy the church.
Meanwhile, new trade routes brought a period of economic and social change to Europe. By 1575,
the wealthy Archbishops were so preoccupied buying luxury goods once reserved for the wealthiest
of kings, that many of them were oblivious to the growing Protestant population: while the Roman
Catholics had fiddled with silks, rugs and precious gems, nearly all aristocrats and three fourth of the
citizens had become Lutheran! Rome was not happy, and at a Munich Conference in 1579, Catholic
delegates of Inner Austria, Bavaria, Tyrol and Salzburg quietly met and planned how to battle the
Protestant threat. Stomping out heretics old-style had simply not been effective.
With only one bull left in the fortress, he had the black bull paraded high up on the fortress wall
within sight of the peasants, who were growing weak from hunger themselves, and then had his
soldiers paint the bull white and parade it again, repeating this procedure a number of times. The
peasants, thinking their tactic of starving him out was in vain, broke off their siege in December,
1525 after negotiating an agreement with Lang, who promised to address their grievances. Lang
instead had a number of rebel leaders arrested and executed. By a combination of determination
and deceit, Lang had outwaited and outwitted the threat.
With Protestantism still spreading, Lang resorted to more sinister measures. He had the pastor Georg
Scherer decapitated and his body burned in 1528 as a warning to other would-be heretics, and he had
other evangelicals imprisoned or expelled, leading Luther to declare him a "monster". Yet, Lang and
his successors remained steadfast Catholics from then on, enjoying absolute rule. Even Lang's harsh
measures were not enough to stifle the desire for freedom among some of his people. It took two
more centuries to fully eliminate the Protestants from Salzburg.
Aristocratic Wolf Dietrich von Raitenau, 1559-1617, was prepared for religious life from childhood
and he was elected Archbishop of Salzburg in 1587 at the young age of 28. A zealous absolutist,
strict reformer and counter-reformationist, he also amassed great art collections and hired Venetian
master Vincenzo Scamozzi to develop plans for a magnificent Baroque renewal of Salzburg.
He demanded obedience from his subjects and strict adherence to Catholic dogma but could not lead
by example: this Archbishop was in love with Salome Alt, 1568-1663, the daughter of a wealthy
merchant. She was described as one of the most beautiful girls in Salzburg, with chestnut hair and
grey eyes. Wolf Dietrich established Lock Altenau (now Mirabell) for his love, with a hidden door
connecting their bedrooms. He furnished the palace grandly and landscaped it well. For 22 years they
were faithful to each other, although this affair was an issue with his opponents and is said to have
cost Wolf Dietrich the appointment of cardinal. Salome bore him a total of 15 children.
Alas, the Archbishopric came hopelessly into conflict with Maximilian of Bavaria, and in October of
1611, Dietrich ordered 1,000 Salzburg troops to occupy Berchtesgaden. Maximilian responded by
sending 24,000 men into Salzburg, forcing Dietrich to flee the city. Maximilian had the Archbishop
arrested, and on November 23, 1611, he sent him to gloomy, 11th century Hohenwerfen fortress
where he was imprisoned and formally deposed. Bavarian troops remained in the country until 1612.
Four years later, Dietrich died in Hohenwerfen in agony, possibly from poisoning. He had scratched
on his wall the words: "Lieb ist Laydes Anfangkh über kurz oder lang" ( "Love is the beginning of
suffering, sooner or later" ). Salome Alt had also been arrested, but was released soon after and
moved to Upper Austria where her children could flourish. She wore black the rest of her life and
was never allowed to see her love again after his arrest. Salome Alt died on June 27, 1663 at age 95.

Awkwardly sandwiched between Austrian lands and neighboring Bavaria, Salzburg was ruled by the
powerful archbishops. The responsibility to elect the Archbishop and sustain his authority rested
upon a chapter of twenty four canons drawn from the nobility, and they put the administration of
Salzburg and its lands entirely in the hands of the Archbishop who regulated every aspect of life,
from business and legal administration to education and the military. Emblematic of this temporal
power was the Fortress Höhensalzburg, built by Archbishop Gebhard in 1077 and successively
improved by successive Archbishops. It is the largest fortification in Europe, and throughout its long
history it has never been captured, occupied or successfully besieged by its enemies. Salzburg was
built on two things: music and salt. The Salzburg Archbishops opened salt works around Hallein in
1200AD and grew rich by buying up shares in the mines until they held them all by the 16th century.
Massive revenue, ten percent of the world's gold along with a vast share of salt, poured in from the
mines and Prince Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach, who ruled from 1495 to 1519, elevated
Höhensalzburg fortress from a purely military use into a structure representative of power and pomp.
One of the most enigmatic personalities in the long series of bishops, von Keutschach invested vast
amounts of money into decoration, modernization and extensions as he transformed the dreary
fortress into a pleasant castle. On marble plates, wherever Höhensalzburg was reshaped under his
rule, his coat of arms with its white turnip on a black field is emblazoned. 58 turnips later, Von
Keutschach had an organ built in 1502 which made horn like sounds that communicated with the
inhabitants of the town in a method akin to the use of alpine horns in the valleys, and the “castle
horn” woke the townsfolk up at 4AM and signaled their bedtime at 7PM. It also reminded everyone
of the Archbishop's power over them. He was the last feudal-style ruler of the city.
He reformed the city finances, paid off old debts and developed the Salzburg economy, turning it into
one of the richest lands of the Holy Roman Empire. His coinage reform was the basis for the modern
monetary system of Salzburg. He repurchased lands sold by his predecessors and expanded the city's
defenses by strengthening the fortress and a large number of castles in the area. He ordered the
construction of river dams in Hallein to prevent destructive spring flooding and built roads to further
promote the salt trade.
The books became almost sacred relics to simple farmers and miners, and were revered for use
during 'Hausandacht', or secret home religious services. These gatherings for friends and neighbors
even included servants and were often led by the more well-versed, articulate and inspirational
individuals among the neighbors who today might be called lay-preachers. One such remarkable
person was a simple salt miner named Joseph Schaitberger, and his name would one day be heard in
all corners of the European continent and his words would be carried to all corners of the world.
Archbishop Matthäus Lang von Wellenburg (ruled 1519-1540), was the son of an Augsburg burgher.
He assumed the name of Wellenburg from a family castle. After his education, he entered the service
of emperor Friedrich III and also became one of the most trusted advisers of Friedrich's son and
successor Maximilian I. His loyalty was rewarded by several promotions within the church hierarchy.
Pope Julius II made him a cardinal, and in 1514 he became coadjutor to the Archbishop of Salzburg,
whom he succeeded in 1519.
Arrogant and ambitious, Lang was unpopular among the people of Salzburg. He recruited Saxon
miners, who in turn brought in Protestant ideas. Realizing the danger too late, he was determined to
keep the populace Catholic by any means. While at first he tolerated a bit of criticism aimed at the
church, when poet/scientist Paul Speratus openly spread Luther´s word in Salzburg, Lang had him
expelled. When Karl V was elected Holy Roman Emperor in 1519, Lang prodded him to take
punitive measures against Martin Luther.
In 1525, some rioting Protestant miners and farmers joined forces with some Salzburg patricians a
nd later with miners of Gastein in the Peasants' War, forcing Lang to flee to Hohensalzburg fortress.
The peasants laid siege but failed to penetrate the fortress with their crude armor and cannons, so
they decided to starve Lang out, assuming he had no ability to get food up to himself. However,
legend has it that the crafty Lang outwitted them.


Long ago, there was a beautiful land nestled in snow capped
mountains in a far away corner of the world. Ancient people
found safety in this land and built simple dwellings. They found
a pleasant existence here. There was plentiful game, abundant
fish in the clear rivers and streams, verdant forests to provide
heat in winter, and flowers and herbs to keep them healthy.
They cleared pastures, raised animals and vegetables, and most
importantly, discovered a treasure deep in the earth to harvest
and trade for that which they lacked. The treasure was salt, and
even these ancient miners, hundreds of years before the birth of
Christ, recognized the necessity and value of salt, or salz.